I’m a self-taught rug hooker, no time yet for classes, rug camps, etc. Learning new or fine tuning my skills happens from workshops offered at our monthly meetings. Wish I had known if I would be at the May meeting. Instead of actually participating today, I observed and took notes that I’ll share here. Cindy Duade graciously agreed to let me take photos to share along with my notes. It was a wonderful workshop with clear information, helpful tips and a teacher willing to help and allow time for members to work each step. Members were definitely busy hooking away. We seemed to have a much larger group still hooking after the noon pot luck than usual. (just one of 3 table areas)
The collage above shows what leaves I was able to get photos of as the meeting drew to a close. Will be interesting to see how they all finish up. (Maybe an October Show and Share side bar VPs ?)
Now for my notes and take aways ~
Let’s start with a close up of the 4 hooked sample leaves Cindy had for display. These showed different ways to approach the light and dark of the leaf as well as different backgrounds.
Using a real leaf, Cindy designed a special leaf pattern for use at this workshop. The pattern was copied onto foundation of choice. Red dot is great for that. These who participated in the workshop got an informational folder with such items as the pattern and photos showing progression/steps and casserole dyed wool. It was fun to see what members chose for their pieces. Wool was cut #4 , then carefully placed in order. Tip: use folder with masking tape to maintain the cutting order. Tape over ends or loop the tape so a sticky side is up to just lay cut strips on. One side can be used to organize the cut off pieces.
Work with up to 6 colors on one piece of dyed wool (light to dark). Colors may seem too bright, but they settle in together once hooked. For background just about any wool works, whether textured, as is wool, spot dyed or solid.
NO Straight Lines! Remember a natural leaf has curves, not straight lines.
Veins are hooked in first. Leaf is not outlined.
Leaf points either all start light or dark. Once decide then you are ready to start.
Hook from leaf edge to veins. Cut off unused section of strip and set aside. Once have these main points hooked in, time to start work on center. First draw in additional curve lines into design for guidance. Start at base (vein) with opposite color end than points (dark here since points light) and hook the strip out. (Can see the dark blue in the center along vein. Hooked all the way to a minor point.)
With hooking all these first strips remember to never use one you have cut off. Always work with a new strip.
After get some dark runs you start to fill in. To match up the shading/color you can do by pulling the tail out until reach the color you want and start hooking, or you can pull a loop until reach color, start to hook then cut at the starting loop. (I would do pull the tail as you can see with the green strip here.) (I would also be checking those cut off sections to match up colors, as I’m a use every piece type of rug hooker.)
Do Not end each strip on the leaf edge. It is not a look you want. On some turn and hook a bit back along side.
To finish Cindy recommends using ribbon. Tip: to sample the look the ribbon will give once whipped, wrap some around a pencil and check against your background fabric.
You whip through the foundation and the attached finish backing material. Lay pencil along edge of finished hooking to get a nice even, but small edge. Mark and trim. Tip: for attaching backing fabric which often moves around as you whip: Use spray adhesive like that used by quilters. This is temporary adhesive. Also pin edge.